Ms. Grow-It-All Columns Page

Q: I have a pomegranate several years old, never pruned and seldom fertilized. It blooms but fails to set fruit. It is not a very robust plant and has several dead branches. My soil is primarily red clay. Suggestions?

A: Pomegranates do best in full sun, which in our area is eight hours a day with some late- day shade, and although they are drought-tolerant, they do need ample water to set fruit. They also prefer sandy loam to heavy clay, with a pH on the slightly acidic side.

I suggest you first test the soil all around your pomegranate for pH as well as nutrients; contact your county extension office for the instruction sheet, soil-sample bag and box to mail the sample to Gainesville for testing.

Your plant needs to be pruned to a single-trunk shrub, removing the dead branches in the process. The big question is whether you should also move it or amend the soil where it is now with organic matter.

If you decide to move it, wait until fall when it’s cooler. Either way, fertilize it in spring before it blooms with ammonium sulfate or another nitrogen-rich fertilizer, following instructions on the label.

A friend’s pomegranate tends to produce lots of blooms but very few fruit, so that might be a trait of the plant in our area. Readers, any tips on pomegranates?

More heat-tolerant tomatoes: Donna Legare of Native Nurseries wrote to add to the list of tomato varieties that can withstand the heat of summer, including small slicers Stupice and Juane Flamme; medium- to large-fruited Blue Beech, Nyagous, Cherokee Purple and Celebrity; and Matt’s Wild Cherry and Herman’s Li’l Yeller for those who want a grape or cherry tomato. You can find more information about all the recommended heat-tolerant varieties I’ve discussed on my website, www.MsGrowItAll.com. All Donna’s recommendations are heirloom varieties except Celebrity, which Donna writes is an “F1 hybrid that was highly recommended by Art Cheek for our area.”

Art was a guru of local vegetable gardening and his show on WFSU-TV had quite a following. The book he and former Democrat garden writer Lacy Bullard co-wrote, Down to Earth Vegetable Gardening Down South, has been updated and the second edition is available at Native Nurseries and other local outlets. Because the information is specific to Tallahassee, I highly recommend it to anyone interested in growing food crops, be it a big traditional garden or a single tomato plant in a 5-gallon bucket.

Rain Garden Grant Reminder: Tomorrow is the deadline to submit an application for a rain garden grant from the city’s Think About Personal Pollution (TAPP) program. The grants reimburse up to $175 for plants, compost and mulch for garden construction, and you’ll be doing your part to reduce storm-water runoff and protect our lakes and streams, as well as our water supply. View details and download an application from www.tappwater.org.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All’s Internet radio show airs at 5 p.m. today on Blog Talk Radio. This week’s topic is hot-weather herb gardening. Join us live at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. You can download a podcast of the program, or any of my previous programs from BlogTalkRadio.com or my website.

©Copyright PostScript Publishing LLC 2011, all rights reserved. Send your garden queries to Questions@MsGrowItAll.com. Audrey Post is a certified Advanced Master Gardener volunteer with the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Leon County.

Readers share tips on growing tomatoes, thwarting squirrels

June 30, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

My columns often include an invitation for readers to share their expertise on the topic or issue of the day, and I am delighted when you send your suggestions. Today’s column is entirely devoted to reader tips. Keep ‘em coming.

Top tomatoes: Master Gardener Glenn Mayne, the best vegetable gardener I know, wrote after he read last week’s column to say that his tomatoes have continued to produce well despite the high heat. He sent a photo of two days’ harvest ripening on the kitchen counter, and he had canned a batch, too, as well as a photo of a tiny green tomato on the plant.

“I have been using Better Boy for so long now, I really don't have any direct experience with other cultivars that do well in hot conditions,” Glenn wrote. “There are cultivars that specify they are ‘mid-season’ and ‘late season,’ which would have to be heat tolerant.

“Some that I have heard of people having success with in past hot summers are
Big Boy Hybrid, Box Car Willie, Solar Fire VFFF Hybrid and Arkansas Traveler #3566.
I believe all are VFN rated, which could be a factor in heat resistance.”

Thanks, Glenn.

By the way, to those who might be new to tomato gardening, “VFN rated” means that the cultivar has proved to be resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F) and nematodes (N). Two F's, as in the Solar Fire he mentioned, indicate resistance to both races 1 and 2 of Fusarium wilt.

More squirrel repellant: Dael Jones, a regular reader and correspondent, wrote to suggest using the spiny balls from a sweet gum tree to keep squirrels out of flowerpots.

“I have discovered that the balls can be placed on the surface of container plants as a foil for squirrels! It seems squirrels don't like the prickly balls beneath their feet. It is not 100 percent effective, but is better than anything else I've tried.

“I've also tried cayenne and black pepper and, they too, are somewhat effective. Mothballs worked but I learned it is bad for them to biodegrade into our soil so I stopped using those.”

Thanks, Dael.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All’s Internet radio show airs at 5 p.m. today on Blog Talk Radio. This week’s we’ll be going through the mailbag, answering reader questions on a variety of topics. Join us live at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. You can download a podcast of the program, or any of my previous programs from BlogTalkRadio.com or my website.

Grape, cherry tomatoes can take high heat

June 23, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: My tomato plants have stopped producing. They did great earlier this season, but now the flowers fall off without setting fruit. What do I do?

A: Wait for cooler weather. Most varieties of tomatoes will stop producing fruit when temperatures soar above 85 or 90 degrees. Once it cools off, they’ll start producing again. Keep them watered, trim off dead or dying branches and try to do both early in the day.

There are several varieties on the market now that are supposed to keep producing in high temperatures, although I don’t know if anything can handle the record 105-degree F. days we’ve had lately. If any gardeners have had success with them, email me at the address at the bottom of this column and I’ll let readers know.

In the meantime, stick with the cherry and grape tomato varieties if you want tomatoes in the heat of summer. They don’t seem to be as bothered by high temperatures as slicing tomatoes.

Squirrel repellant suggestion: Rowe Rogero shared the following tip for deterring squirrels from potted plants: “The squirrels used to dig up the dirt in my freshly potted plants. I tried the greasy spray but the necessity for repeat treatments proved too labor intensive for me. I tried leaf and pine mulch, without much success. Then I started experimenting with impermeable objects on the soil and that has been successful.

“Any new potted plant gets rocks, large shells, or broken clay pot shards laid across the dirt. Works like a charm. I collect the rocks and shells on trips or just borrow the river rocks from some ground cover areas in my yard. I got inspired to use potshards after I accidentally broke a clay pot. That works well because you can break it into whatever size you need. Now I rarely lose a new plant to the squirrels and the rocks, and shells actually add appeal to the look of some plants.”

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All’s Internet radio show airs at 5 p.m. today on Blog Talk Radio. This week’s topic is how gardeners can co-exist with deer. If you have suggestions, email them to comments@msgrowitall.com or join us live at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. Or, you can download a podcast of the program, or any of my previous programs. Go to BlogTalkRadio.com or my website.

Wait until cooler weather to move shrub

June 16, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: Awhile ago in your column, you recommended cutting into the soil all around a gardenia bush to encourage growth of feeder roots prior to moving it. We did this, as we have a gardenia bush that hasn't thrived, I think, because it was planted too low in the ground. Now it's June and time to raise or move it, and the bush is suddenly looking lush and healthy! Should we just leave it alone?

A: I’d leave it alone. Whatever was ailing it seems to have been corrected. It’s possible that the root-pruning allowed the gardenia to grow feeder roots closer to the surface, compensating for the fact it was planted too low.

If you decide you still want to move your gardenia, I wouldn’t do it during this extreme heat. Moving a plant creates stress on it, and so does high heat. You don’t want to overstress the plant, especially now that it’s looking healthy. Wait until fall if you do move it, and water it well until it’s established in its new home. But it sounds like you really don’t need to move it now.

Squirrel repellant: E. Messer sent an email with a tip for keeping squirrels out of your flowerpots and flower beds. “I read several years ago in Motor Home magazine that if you sprinkle blood meal under a motor home, the squirrels will not come around and eat the wires underneath the motor. We did this and each year I sprinkle blood meal in my flowerbeds and potted plants when I plant. The squirrels do not come around, as they do not like the smell of blood meal.”

Thanks. If anyone else has any tips for keeping squirrels (or deer or other wildlife) out of pots and planting beds that don’t involve firearms or other deadly force, email them to the address at the bottom of the column and I’ll share them.

Internet radio show: Leon County/University of Florida forester Stan Rosenthal will join Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio at 5 p.m. today to talk about soil amendments – what they do and what they don’t do. Join us at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program, or any of my previous programs.

Critters can wreak havoc with plantings

June 9, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: Last summer, I had lovely pots of verbena, potato vine and Knockout roses on my deck that the squirrels completely ignored. This summer, the squirrels continue to strip all leaves and flowers from these same plantings. Crushed red pepper doesn't faze them. The deck is in full sun. What can I plant that squirrels will hate but do well in this hot area? Or how do I get rid of the squirrel problem?

A: Are you sure it’s the squirrels eating your verbena, potato vine and roses? Those plants are tasty treats for other critters, particularly deer, so I want to make sure that we’re targeting the correct animal. Not that I can guarantee much success either way. Both can be wily creatures, and everybody’s gotta eat.

If critters – squirrels, deer, raccoons, etc. – are targeting your potted plants this year when they left them alone in previous summers, then they’re not getting fed at their usual places this year. Given the abundance of squirrels in our area, as well as other wildlife as development destroys their native habitat, your choices are limited.

If squirrels are indeed your nemesis, I suggest installing a squirrel feeder on the other side of the yard and keeping it well-stocked with seeds and nuts they find particularly toothsome. If they fill up on preferred foods, they won’t be as tempted to munch on your plants.

And at the risk of enraging some readers, I will also suggest that having a pet dog hang out on your deck might keep squirrels from poaching your plants. The mere presence of a canine is usually enough to discourage squirrels from approaching the area where your pots are located. When the subject has been discussed previously, I have managed to raise the ire of more than one squirrel lover. We can co-exist. The question is how much you’re willing to share.

Internet radio show: Leon County/University of Florida forester Stan Rosenthal will join Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio at 5 p.m. today to talk about heat stress on plants – how to recognize it and what to do about it. Join us at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program.

Get a soil test for Satsuma

June 2, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: I planted a healthy Satsuma orange tree in my front yard in full sun about five years ago. I have fed it regularly and kept it watered. It is very healthy and puts on good new growth every year, but every spring after a fruit set of up to several hundred oranges, every single one of them turns yellow and drops off within about three weeks. I have never sprayed it with any pesticide. I can’t find anything on the Internet to tell me what’s wrong. I have friends in the Tallahassee area with enormous crops on their trees every year. What’s the problem with my poor tree?

A: Some fruit drop on citrus is normal, because the tree produces more fruit than it can sustain to maturity and naturally thins out some of it. Excessive fruit drop, however, is a sign the tree is under stress and can be caused by several things; often, it’s a combination of more than one factor.

First, get a soil test done. You can get the kit and directions at your county Extension Service office. The instructions will tell you to collect soil from several areas of the planting bed, so take samples from all around the tree, as far out as the canopy extends. Ask for the full soil analysis, not just the pH, or soil acidity, test. Potassium deficiency can cause of fruit drop, especially if your tree is trying to produce a heavy crop, and that is one ailment that is easy to diagnose and remedy. It will also tell you whether you need additional micronutrients.

The soil test will also tell you whether you’re over-fertilizing your tree. Hold off on applying any more fertilizer until you know what elements are present in your soil, and at what levels.

Uniform and adequate watering is critical in preventing fruit drop. You said you’ve kept it watered; is there a possibility you’ve overwatered it? If the area doesn’t have good drainage, the roots will get soggy and that will cause fruit drop
.
It could be that your tree is trying to produce too much fruit. If your tree is only five years old, it probably can’t sustain several hundred fruit to maturity. Try removing at least half, maybe three-fourths, of the fruit as soon as it sets, so the tree can put its energy into developing the remaining fruit to maturity. As it gets bigger, it can handle a larger crop.
Betony note: Steve Christman from Floridata.com wrote to say it’s the corms, not the leaves, of Florida betony that are edible, but he added that they’re not particularly flavorful. He described them as “virtually tasteless.”

Hot vinegar might do the trick with betony

May 26, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: You wrote that vinegar would be an organic way to kill weeds and also mentioned hot water, so I wondered, should the vinegar be hot to do a better job? Will the vinegar kill the corms underground of Florida betony, too? My planting areas are overrun with it. Also, does the edible leaf look like a lamb’s ear?

A: I think heating the vinegar might give it a little more punch; it's certainly worth a try. It's the vinegar's acidity that kills the weeds but it's the heat with boiling water, so it makes sense to me to try combining both elements.

As for the corms, they are segmented and resemble snake rattles, hence the weed’s other name, rattlesnake weed. When you kill one plant to the root, or corm, another segment takes over and sprouts. Even chemical herbicides such as Roundup kill only the active segment of the corm. You could try repeated applications, but I suspect it will be a long and laborious process to kill the corm entirely.

Luckily, it’s a cool-weather weed so the heat should knock it back soon. And the hot weather certainly seems to have arrived here in North Florida.

Florida betony's leaf is shaped a little like a lamb's ear, but it’s smaller and less silvery and not fuzzy.

Q: Can you transplant agapanthus lilies now? Please give to me instructions for transplanting.

A: Agapanthus are getting ready to bloom, so you might want to wait until fall, or at least until they quit blooming, to transplant them. Given how hot and dry it has been lately, you’d have to water them at least once a day to help them get established.

You’ll want to divide them when you transplant them, because they multiply. Dig up the entire clump and take a sharp spade and separate the clumps where they naturally divide. It will take a little muscle to accomplish, and you’ll probably have to twist the spade to get it through the root mass.

Spread the roots out in the new planting hole, setting the agapanthus at the same depth it was previously. Keep well-watered until established.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio airs at 5 p.m. today (Thursday) at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. This week’s conversation is about ways to keep your garden and outdoor plants watered during hot weather. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program from my website.

The show on edible landscaping that originally was scheduled for last week will air at a later date. Last week’s show was canceled because I was at the hospital with my mom, who suffered a stroke. She’s in the rehabilitation hospital now, undergoing intensive physical therapy and worrying that the deer are eating her flowers. (They are.) Please keep us in your thoughts.

©Copyright PostScript Publishing LLC 2011, all rights reserved. Send your garden queries to Questions@MsGrowItAll.com. Audrey Post is a certified Advanced Master Gardener volunteer with the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Leon County.

Fall is best, but daylilies can be divided anytime

May 19, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: Is now a good time to divide daylilies? Is there a trick to it? How often should I divide them?

A: Even though fall is the best time to divide daylilies, they’re so tough that you really can divide them anytime. Most gardeners in the Deep South divide daylilies every three years.

Dig the entire clump and divide into individual plants. You’ll be able to see very easily where the divisions are. When you replant them, dig a hole, then place a mound of dirt in the center of the hole. Set the bottom of the plant on top of the mound, and spread the roots and rhizomes around the mound so they drape down into the bottom of the hole. Top-dress with a little compost to get the new plants off to a good start.

Water well until the plants are established and begin to grow. You might not get blooms this year, but plants can surprise you.

Citrus fertilization: If you haven’t given your citrus trees a dose of fertilizer this month, do it now. Citrus needs fertilization in February, May and August. If you missed the February dose, don’t double the May one. Give a very light one again in June, then follow that with the regular amount in August
.
Use a fertilizer formulated for citrus, because it has the right balance of the major elements and include micronutrients that citrus requires. The amount of fertilizer needed varies, depending upon the age of the tree and the type of citrus, so follow the label instructions.

Garden photos: Got an especially lovely flower or a vegetable you’re especially proud of, such as a giant zucchini that looks like Richard Nixon? Send a high-resolution digital photo and I’ll post it on my website. Please include your name and a description of how and where you grew your prize.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio airs at 5 p.m. today (Thursday) at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. This week’s conversation is about edible landscaping. Join the conversation and share your tips. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program. There’s also an archive of earlier shows.

©Copyright PostScript Publishing LLC 2011, all rights reserved. Send your garden queries to Questions@MsGrowItAll.com. Audrey Post is a certified Advanced Master Gardener volunteer with the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Leon County.

Florida betony difficult to eradicate

May 12, 2011:

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: I have a very invasive pest plant in a three-year-old flowerbed. I have found literally hundreds of the rhizomes when digging to put in new plants. A few of the rhizomes have been nearly two inches in length, always with the characteristic ribbing (looking like a fat caterpillar), always white. Can you help me identify it?

A: Oh yes. You have Florida betony in your flowerbed. But you’re in good company. Almost every other gardener in the Southeast does battle with Florida betony, and I’m sorry to say the betony usually wins.

Botanically known as Stachys floridana, it is sometimes called “rattlesnake weed” because the rhizomes resemble snake rattles, and the slightest shard of rhizome left in the ground will sprout a new plant. It is a member of the mint family and has the telltale square stems.

The good news is that it is a cool-season weed, and it will begin to die back as temperatures rise and stay in the 80s and 90s. But it never completely goes away, at least not in my yard, and once temperatures start to cool in the fall, it will reappear.

A product containing glyphosate, such as Roundup, will knock it back, but remember that it’s a non-selective herbicide and will kill nearby plants if it touches them.

Florida betony is edible, so if you can’t tame it you might try eating it.

Upcoming events: It’s not too late buy tickets for this weekend’s annual Tallahassee Tour of Gardens to benefit Maclay Gardens State Park, or to register for Saturday’s Panhandle Native Wildflower Mini-Symposium on May 14 at the University of Florida Research and Education Center in Quincy. They are the same day, but the symposium ends at 12:30, so you might be able to do both. And mark your calendar for next weekend’s demonstration gardens’ open house at the Leon County Extension Office. See my website for details on all these events.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio airs at 5 p.m. today (Thursday) at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. This week’s conversation is about lawn care. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program.

©Copyright PostScript Publishing LLC 2011, all rights reserved. Send your garden queries to Questions@MsGrowItAll.com. Audrey Post is a certified Advanced Master Gardener volunteer with the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Leon County.

May 5, 2011:

Amaryllis needs high shade, good drainage

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: We would like to grow amaryllis in outside beds, but all the articles I find concerning amaryllis seem to be for growing them in pots. What do you suggest?

A: In colder climes, people grow amaryllis in pots and move them to protected areas or indoors for the winter. Because of our relatively mild winters, amaryllis will grow outdoors here and perform reliably as a perennial. Their trumpet-shaped flowers and strap-like foliage make them a favorite for planting in drifts or for adding a spot of color in front of shrubbery.

Amaryllis prefer light or high shade, and a bed under tall pine trees is ideal. Too much shade leaves them spindly and they won’t flower very well. They also need good drainage or they’ll rot. It is important to mulch them heavily in winter, to create a blanket of protection, and to remove the spent blossoms before the plant sets seed, or else the plant puts its energy into reproducing itself and next year’s blossoms will suffer.

Plant the bulbs 12 to 15 inches apart with the neck sticking up slightly out of the ground. Keep them moist but not soggy for the first few weeks, until they get established.

Dividing the bulbs in the fall will give you bigger flowers the following year, as well as create an opportunity to mix in some compost. Amaryllis grown in the ground, don’t need as much fertilizer as pot-grown plants, so use a light hand with fertilizer. Use a slow-release formula such as 15-0-15, unless a soil test has indicated you’re lacking in phosphorus.

Garden Tours: The 19th Annual Apalachicola Historic Home & Garden Tour is scheduled for this weekend, with a lecture program Friday evening and a tour of cottages and gardens from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday. Proceeds benefit Trinity Episcopal Church’s maintenance fund. Tickets are $15 in advance and $20 the day of the event. Call 850-653-9550 for more information.

Also, mark your calendars for the Leon County Extension Office’s demonstration garden spring open house on May 21 from 9 a.m. to noon. Learn what grows in our area, view exhibits and get information on creating wildlife habitat, the Florida Friendly Landscape program, plant propagation and invasive plants – and it’s free. Stroll the grounds or take a guided tour. See the new 40,000-gallon rooftop rainwater recycling system. For more information, see http://leon.ifas.ufl.edu/

Internet radio show: Leon County/University of Florida forester Stan Rosenthal will join Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio at 5 p.m. today (Thursday) to talk about dogwood trees for the coastal south. Join us at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program.

April 28, 2011:

Using Roundup on patio can damage nearby trees

By Audrey Post
Ms. Grow-It-All

Q: Over the past few summers, I’ve used extended control Roundup in late spring to kill the weeds that come up between the pavers on my patio. Last fall, we planted a couple of small trees near the patio to provide shade, and my neighbor says they’ll die if I use the Roundup this year. I certainly don’t want to kill the trees. Is she right? What should I use?

A: There’s an ongoing debate about how long Roundup and its active ingredient, glyphosate, stay in the soil. Critics challenge the validity of company-sponsored research; supporters question the agenda of those with opposing views. The main thing to remember is this:

Roundup is a poison. It kills things. It is a non-selective, broad-spectrum herbicide, meaning it kills anything and everything in its path. Extended control is a stronger version of the original, so it’s more poisonous. With anything poisonous, you should use caution when applying.

Depending on how close your trees are to the patio, their root zones probably extend under the pavers. Anything you spray on the pavers can leach down through the soil. Plus, there’s always the possibility of spray drifting over to the trees and nearby plants, no matter how careful you are when applying the herbicide.

The safest, least toxic solution is to pull the weeds by hand, but a lot of people don’t find that idea appealing. Boiling water will kill the grass, as will white vinegar, and neither should harm your tree if you don’t overdo the application.

Another solution is to plant groundcover between the pavers. They’ll choke out the weeds and give a nice, soft look to the patio. Ask your local nursery staff or check out www.Stepables.com for perennials that can take foot traffic.

Garden Tours: Mark your calendars for a couple of upcoming garden tours that are sure to give you plenty of ideas for your own yard. The Tallahassee Area Rose Society is sponsoring an open house of local rose gardens this Sunday from 1 to 4 p.m., and the annual Tallahassee Tour of Gardens to benefit Maclay Gardens State Park is May 14. The Maclay tour is a little later than usual this year, because the colder-than-normal winter caused things to bloom later than usual. Details for both tours are available on the event calendar on my website, www.msgrowitall.com.

Native wildflowers: If you’re considering adding native wildflowers to your garden, check out the Panhandle Native Wildflower Mini-Symposium on May 14 at the University of Florida Research and Education Center in Quincy. Yes, it’s the same day as the Maclay tour but the symposium ends at 12:30, so you might be able to do both. See my website for details.

Internet radio show: Ms. Grow-It-All on Blog Talk Radio airs at 5 p.m. today (Thursday) at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all. This week’s conversation is about pets and the garden. If you can’t join us live, you can download a podcast of the program.

©Copyright PostScript Publishing LLC 2011, all rights reserved. Send your garden queries to Questions@MsGrowItAll.com. Audrey Post is a certified Advanced Master Gardener volunteer with the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Leon County.

April 20, 2011:

Wire underneath raised garden bed can foil moles

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: I'm planning a raised vegetable garden bed in my backyard. I've never done this before so I'm not sure about the bottom of the bed. Do I put a bottom in the bed? If so, should I use wood, plastic or what? My concern is based on the fact that my yard has a lot of moles and I'm sure they would love the bed.

A: Good for you for starting a vegetable garden! Raised beds are a good method because you’re not limited by the quality of the soil in your yard; you control what you fill the bed with. A mix of topsoil, peat and composted cow manure makes a fine garden soil.

You can build a frame with sides of wood or other material, or you can simply mound the soil and slope the sides. Either method will also net you improved drainage. However, if you’re trying to keep varmints out, you’ll probably be better off building something with sides. Treated lumber lasts longer than untreated, but there’s a risk the chemicals used to treat it will leach into the soil. Some of the composite materials made from recycled products have had good reviews.

As for the bottom, I would not use plastic or wood. You want the water to soak into the soil and down into the subsoil, and solid, non-porous materials will prevent that. I suggest you lay hardware cloth down across the bottom of your raised bed before you fill it with soil, leaving a few inches extra all the way around. Push the excess up along the sides of the frame. You could staple it or simply let the soil hold it in place. The small mesh will keep out the moles. Chicken wire would probably work, too, but the holes in the mesh are larger.

Hot peppers for a good cause: James Graves and Native Nurseries have partnered to sell “ghost peppers” to benefit the Godby High School band. The small hot peppers are purported to be even hotter than habaneros. Stop by the nursery and pick up a pack of seeds so the band can keep the music coming.

Website re-launch: Finally, my redesigned website is up and running! Check it out at www.msgrowitall.com. It features a calendar of regional gardening events, as well as links to Blog Talk Radio and the Tallahassee Democrat. There’s also a place for reader-submitted photos.

Internet radio show: Join us for Ms. Grow-It-All’s Internet radio show this week for a conversation with Leon County/University of Florida forester Stan Rosenthal about garden lingo. The show airs live at 5 p.m. today. If you can’t join us live at www.blogtalkradio.com/ms_grow-it-all, you can download a podcast of the program from my Web site, www.msgrowitall.com.

April 13, 2011:

Climbing fig can be invasive

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: We have a large tree in our yard that I can’t identify. The “fruit” on it is odd, and when I cut it open, it smells like a gardenia. I’m sending a photo of it. Any ideas?

A: Your “tree” is actually a vine that is extremely happy where it lives. Ficus pumila, also called creeping fig or climbing fig, can climb tall buildings with the help of a sticky adhesive that it exudes. Once it reaches the top of whatever it is climbing, it puts out horizontal branches that have leather leaves. When young, its leaves have a much finer texture. Given the size of the branches, this ficus is well-established.

It’s a cousin of the fig tree we cultivate for fruit, but the fruit of this vine is considered inedible. It requires the services of a fig wasp for pollination.

Loretta Denes of Loretta Denes Landscaping said she has encountered climbing fig in its mature form only a couple of times. This plant is tough, grows in sun or shade and, once established, is drought-tolerant. It can get invasive if not kept pruned, and the adhesive damages wood. It doesn’t seem to bother concrete or stone. In colder climates, it dies back to the ground.

So you actually have a rather rare specimen in your yard.

Q: My Christmas cactus looks rather said, as though it’s melting into the pot. I’ve kept it watered weekly but it doesn’t seem to be getting better. What do I do? It was a big, beautiful plant with gorgeous blooms over the holidays.

A: Stop watering it. Your plant is drowning. Once it has finished blooming, a Christmas cactus doesn’t need much water until it starts a new growth cycle in spring. Over-watering is a common mistake.

Cut it back to where you see healthy foliage, which might be a soil level. If the soil is really soggy, you might need to repot it in fresh, dry planting medium. Set it outside in a shady spot and once you see new growth, start watering it again. Make sure it has good drainage.

April 6, 2011:

Indian hawthorn needs sun to thrive

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: We have an Indian hawthorn that produces beautiful clumps of pink flowers, but it is a very thin/spindly plant with growth only at the tips and lots of bare branches. No one seems to be able to answer one question: Is it ok to prune an Indian Hawthorne back as I do with other shrubs, which have responded by growing gorgeously thick? We're just a little outside of Leon County up here in Bainbridge, Ga.

A: Yes, you can prune an Indian hawthorn if it needs it. A member of the Rose family, Indian hawthorn rarely needs pruning when healthy and properly sited. Leaves and flowers are clustered on the tips of branches, but the plant should appear full.

Although it will grow in partial or high shade, it does best in full sun. It sounds as though your plant might not get enough sun where it is. Plants tend to be more compact and more full if grown in sunny locations.

Go ahead and cut it back once it has finished blooming. You can either prune it, cutting back individual branches, or you can shear it.

However, be aware that Indian hawthorn can sometimes be infected with fire blight, which causes twig dieback. Just in case there is fire blight present, dip your pruners in a 10 percent bleach solution after each cut to avoid spreading it, and then bag and dispose of the cuttings. Better to be safe than sorry.

Q: Does your advice about waiting to fertilize lawns until the soil has warmed also pertain to sod? I had new sod put down about 3-4 weeks ago and while it does have some green shoots they comprise only about 25-30 percent of the lawn. My lawn looks brown compared to neighboring lawns.

A: Yes, it does. The soil is no warmer for freshly laid sod than for an existing lawn. New sod needs to “peg down” and get roots into the soil to establish itself. It’s more important that you water your soil frequently for the first few weeks than to fertilize it.

March 30, 2011:

Many flowering perennials like some shade

By Audrey Post
MS. GROW-IT-ALL

Q: What perennial flowers will grow in shade? We have a tree-shaded slope that we’d like to cover with flowers, but we don’t want to replant every year.

A: While there aren’t as many flowering perennials for shady sites as there are for sunny sites, there are quite a few to choose from. One thing to keep in mind, though: Full sun in Florida is so much stronger than the full sun that gardeners deal with elsewhere, so if your shade is light shade or high, filtered shade, you can probably stretch and include some flowering perennials that call for part sun or even full sun. It depends on the kind of shade, your yard’s microclimate and the plant.

Some of my favorite shade perennials are Philippine violet (Barleria cristata), Jacobinia, Spanish bluebells and hardy begonias. Hardy star begonia lives up to its name and thrives on neglect, making it an ideal plant for a slope. African iris does well in part shade and is drought-tolerant, once established, and is also a good candidate for slopes. Bush daisy and African daisy are also contenders.

Daylilies can handle high shade and shifting shade, or shade that changes throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky. Agapanthus is thought of as a full-sun plant, but it also does well in part-shade or high-shade. Both those flowering perennials offer nice foliage for most of the year, even when not in bloom.

Flax lily, botanically known as Dianella, does well in either sun or shade. It is better known for its foliage than for its small flowers, but it can add interest to a flowering perennial bed. The same can be said for Persian shield, and its colorful foliage is stunning.

If the trees providing your shade are deciduous, you probably can include mass plantings of daffodils. They’ll get enough sun for a spring display, and the summer perennials will come along just in time to help mask the foliage once the bloom season has ended. If you mix your varieties, you can have early, mid-season and late-season daffodils on the slope to provide flowers for weeks.

Decide what flowers you like best, then see whether your slope and its conditions will support them.